Iceland: disconnect to reconnect

Do you need a break from your busy city life and experience the feeling of total relaxation? Go to Iceland!

This small Nordic European country has quite something to offer: From fascinating natural hot springs and waterfalls over magnetic glaciers and coastal cliffs to a vibrant music and art scene and so much more.

I chose to discover Iceland because the flight search ‘Germany – San Francisco’ suggested to travel with WOW Air and stop in Reykjavik. Why not expanding the stopover to one week and take a break? Disconnect to reconnect.

field iceland green

I spent two nights in hipster Reykjavik, travelled to the South of Iceland and discovered the stunning Sneafellness Peninsula in the west. I have gathered the highlights of this short trip (you would need a lot more time to discover the whole country) and a sample itinerary for a summer trip below. Renting a car is the best option to get around in this short amount of time. There are plenty of rental companies – check online for the best offer.


Reykjavik

The Tourist Information Centre has a great selection of tours and little guidebooks, the staff is very friendly and can answer all your questions. My favorite way to explore a city is going for a run: Reykjavik is quite small so you can get a perfect overview and see all the sights within a chilled one hour run, including Hallgrímskirkja church, Solfar Sculpture, concert hall Harpa, etc.

In the capital you have great food options, here are a couple of recommendations:

  • For great coffee I loved Reykjavik Roasters, cute hipster café – you can even make the coffee yourself.
  • Great vegetarian restaurant and very hip with locals is Glo restaurant. They have very fresh vegetarian and vegan dishes served with your choice of salad and gluten free bread.
  • Reykjavik is great to experience the hipster life – you should at least go to a bar and have beers with the locals. They usually play awesome music, too. My favorite: Kaffi Barinn
  • Go food shopping at Bonus – the best value supermarket in the country. You have to try skyr (the famous islandic yogurt), rye bread and licorice covered with chocolate.

More restaurant tips:

Accommodation tip: central airbnb appartment (street parking available almost everywhere).

One day for the capital is actually enough. Only 100km outside of Reykjavik sensational landscape and pure nature awaits you!


Southern Iceland: From Reykjavik, Golden Circle and Hveragerði to Vik

Thingvellir National Park – majestic landscapes sculpted by the continental rift and past volcanic activity. Tectonic faults, lava fields, Skjaldbreidur volcano dome and Thingvallavatn, the largest body of fresh water in Iceland, Öxarárfoss waterfall. The deep fissure Flosagja at Thingvellir National Park, a fissure in the earth’s crust where the European and American continental plates drift apart.

Need coffee on the road? Get a really delicious cappuccino at Lindin, shortly before Haukadalur.

Haukadalur – a stunning geothermal area: The biggest geysers of Haukadalur are Strokkur and Geysir itself, which gave us the word ‘geyser’. Strokkur is very dependable and erupts every 5 to 10 minutes, whereas the bigger Geysir nowadays erupts very rarely. There are also more than 40 other smaller hot springs, mud pots and fumaroles nearby.

Gullfoss Waterfall – last official sight of the Golden Circle.

Hveragerði – the hottest small town in the world and a stunning geothermal river that you can hike. What I loved most is the hike to the geothermal river valley Reykjadladur. Go to trailhead of Reykjadladur and walk up to this beautiful geothermal valley. 3,5 km hike through fields with sheep and volcano stone.

Enjoy delicious food at Restaurant Varma – awe-inspiring menu, great views, relaxed atmosphere (restaurant is part of Frost & Fire guesthouse).

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall is one of the best-known waterfalls in Iceland. The waterfall drops 60 meters and is part of the river Seljalands-river that has its origin in the volcano glacier Eyjafjallajokull. One of the interesting things about this waterfall is the fact that visitors can walk behind it into a small cave.

Gljúfrafoss Waterfall: Gljúfrabúi is 40 meters high and partially hidden behind a large cliff which gives it a mystical aura. It can be seen in all it’s splendour by wading the river into a narrow opening in the cliff or by climbing a steep path up the cliff.

Seljavallalaug old school swimming pool is picturesquely situated deep inside a short and narrow valley not far from the one and only Eyjafjallajökull.

Skogafoss Waterfall, a classically-shaped rectangular waterfall that dropped 60m with a width of 25m. From here you have the option to make a multi day or a daylong hike.

Kirkjufjara black beach, Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara: Great views, black sand beach and basalt sea stacks.

Vik – the southernmost village in Iceland, with nice restaurants. Food is great at Sudur Vik Restaurant.

Accommodation Tip: Stay at a farm, book via airbnb (great local experience as there are almost only farms in this part of the country)


From Reykjavik to Sneafellness Peninsula

Glymur waterfall on the way to Sneafellness: Hike up to the highest waterfall in the country and be amazed by stunning views that await you after every corner. You can go all the way up the mountain and further into the river valley. Here you should cross the river and go back down on the other side of the waterfall. Make sure you take an extra windstopper layer with you, in can get quite stormy in the valley.

Need a coffee? Make a stop at Kaffi Kjos which is beautifully situated on the very calm Meðalfellsvatn lake surrounded by mountains.

On the road to Sneafellness is a hidden hot spring spot. Soothe your muscles in one of the two springs at Landbrotalaug Hot Pot. The temperature in the pool is about 36 – 40°C, excellent for bathing. It is located near volcano Eldborg – the exact location is quite easy to find with GPS. If your don’t have a GPS it’s a little tricky – coming from Reykjavik turn left towards Stora-Hraun, then dirt road for about 200m, then left turn and dirt road for another 100m.

Close to the hot spring are the famous Gerduberg Cliffs, nice and on the road, take a pic and move on.

The distinctive Kirkjufell Mount (Church Mountain) and well-situated Kirkjufellsfoss (waterfall) on the north part of the Sneafellness Island invite to stroll around or even run up the mountain (very steep tough!). Or simply sit back and enjoy the views over the beautiful landscape.

Arnarstapi is the end of a stunning coastal trail that starts in Hellnar (2.5km). Arnastapi itself is a tiny fishing village, nothing special, but a great view over the ocean.

In Hellnar you have a better selection of restaurants and cafes coffee. I liked Cafe Primus for its local homemade food (great cakes) and cozy atmosphere. Hotel Hellnar serves delicious dinner.

Excursion to the magic Snæfellsjökull Glacier (1446m), which is an active volcano: You should make a snowmobile tour or Snow cat tour if you’re certain that you have a great view. Most of the times you will just see clouds and mist. Then snowcat is better as you can take photos sitting on the back of the snowcat. Also less expensive. If you have time and the appropriate equipment, several tour operators also offer hikes to the glacier. Many believe the glacier to be one of the seven main energy centres of the earth and its mystique is noticed by many.

Hike from Djupalonssandur beach & Dritvik cove to Lóndrangar & Malarrif Lighthouse: You can walk directly from the parking at the Dritvik hiking trailhead to Malariff Lighthouse (about 1,5 + 1 hours). Djúpalónssandur beach is one of the highlights of Snæfellsnes peninsula wonders. The picturesque beach is covered by countless little black stone, which were shaped by the non stopping forces of the ocean and the wind.

Accommodation Tip: Hotel Hellnar (very friendly staff and amazing restaurant with great views).

 


Last stop: Blue Lagoon before departing at Keflavik Airport

Give yourself another little relaxation treat before your vacation comes to an end. Visit the famous Blue Lagoon and get nurtured by the silica water, have a mask and a massage. Make sure you book your stay in advance. If possible avoid busy times between 10am – 6pm.


Next time

Here are some things that I would definitely do next time in addition:

  • Stay for at least 2 weeks and make a tour all around the island
  • Rent a big 4WD with that you are able to cross rivers and use as hotel room
  • Travel with a tent and sleep on the foot of a waterfall, hot spring or near the sea in Vik
  • Make a multi-day trek (eg. Lannmanalaughar – Thorsmork – Skogar)
  • Travel in winter/fall and see the Northern Lights

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